How To Properly Kick Start A Motorcycle

Getting your motorcycle to roar to life with a well-executed kick start is a satisfying skill. While modern bikes often feature electric starters, mastering the kick start is essential for older models, in case of battery failure, and for a true rider’s connection to their machine. This guide will walk you through the process, highlighting common pitfalls and ensuring you can reliably get your ride going.

Prerequisites for a Successful Motorcycle Kick

Before you even think about swinging your leg over the bike, ensure you have the right conditions. This isn’t just about having the kick starter itself; it’s about setting the stage for a smooth ignition.

• Fuel: Confirm your fuel tank has sufficient gasoline. A common mistake is attempting to kick start a bike with an empty or near-empty tank. Listen for the fuel pump priming (if applicable) or visually check the fuel level. For example, on a carbureted bike, you should see the fuel level clearly above the petcock outlet. On a fuel-injected bike, ensure the fuel pump engages with an audible whir when the ignition is turned on.
• Battery (if applicable): Even for kick-start bikes, a healthy battery is crucial for the ignition system. If your bike has a battery, ensure it’s charged. A weak battery can prevent the spark plugs from firing effectively. A simple voltage check with a multimeter (aiming for over 12.4V when off) can preempt this issue. For instance, a battery reading below 12V often indicates it’s too weak to reliably power the ignition.
• Gear Neutral: Absolutely critical. The motorcycle must be in neutral. Attempting to kick start in gear will result in the bike lurching forward violently, which is dangerous and can cause damage. Always double-check. Most bikes have a neutral indicator light on the dash. If yours doesn’t, gently rocking the bike in neutral will feel loose, while in gear it will resist. A common failure point is relying solely on the indicator light, which can fail; always confirm with the feel of the bike.
• Choke (if applicable): If your motorcycle has a carburetor and is cold, you’ll likely need to engage the choke. This enriches the fuel-air mixture for easier starting. Familiarize yourself with your bike’s choke lever or knob – it’s usually located near the carburetor or handlebars. On many older bikes, like a Honda CB750, the choke lever is on the carburetor itself. If the engine is warm, the choke should be off to prevent flooding.

Mastering the Motorcycle Kick Technique

The act of kicking the starter lever is more than just brute force; it’s a coordinated movement that requires finesse and understanding of the engine’s cycle.

1. Positioning: Stand on the left side of the motorcycle. Place your left foot firmly on the ground for stability. Your right foot will operate the kick starter. Ensure you have a stable, non-slip surface under your foot. A wobbly stance is a prime cause of ineffective kicks.

2. Find Top Dead Center (TDC): This is the most crucial, yet often overlooked, step for a proper motorcycle kick. With the bike in neutral and the ignition on, gently push the kick starter lever down until you feel resistance. This is the beginning of the compression stroke. Now, slowly bring the lever back up until you feel a slight “give” or the lever moves a millimeter or two past the point of firm resistance. This is TDC. Kicking from here ensures you’re engaging the engine’s full power stroke. Kicking from too early in the stroke means you’re fighting the engine’s natural resistance and wasting energy. For example, on a four-stroke engine, you’re aiming to kick just as the piston reaches the top of its compression stroke, right before the power stroke begins.

3. The Kick: Once at TDC, take a firm stance. Use your body weight, not just your leg strength. Swing your leg down in a smooth, decisive motion, driving the kick starter lever downwards with controlled force. Aim for a full, uninterrupted stroke. You’re not trying to “pump” it; it’s one powerful push. Imagine your body weight descending through the kick. A common mistake is to hesitate or make a jerky motion, which dissipates energy.

4. Release and Repeat (if necessary): After the kick, allow the lever to return to its resting position on its own. If the engine doesn’t fire, repeat steps 2 and 3. Don’t rush. Take a moment between kicks to let the engine settle and to recompose your stance. Allowing the lever to snap back prematurely can sometimes prevent a full cycle.

Expert Tips for Your Motorcycle Kick

• Tip 1: The “Short” Kick: Sometimes, a full, powerful kick isn’t necessary. If the engine is warm or you’ve just tried to start it, a shorter, controlled kick can be enough to get it going. This is especially true if the engine is already partially pressurized.
• Actionable Step: After a failed full kick, try a half-stroke kick from TDC.
• Common Mistake to Avoid: Over-kicking a warm engine, which can flood it and make starting harder. For example, if the bike sputtered and died, a full kick might be too much fuel.
• Tip 2: Listen to Your Engine: Pay attention to the sounds your engine makes during the kick. A healthy “thump” indicates compression, while sputtering or coughing might suggest a fuel or spark issue. This auditory feedback is your engine’s diagnostic report.
• Actionable Step: Before kicking, briefly turn the engine over by hand (if possible, on bikes where this is feasible) to feel the compression.
• Common Mistake to Avoid: Ignoring unusual noises or vibrations that could signal a developing problem, such as a rattling sound indicating loose components. A grinding noise during the kick is a red flag.
• Tip 3: Body Position Matters: Your stance and how you use your body weight are paramount. A wobbly stance or relying solely on leg power will lead to inefficient kicks and potential strain. A solid base transfers energy effectively.
• Actionable Step: Keep your core engaged and use your hips to drive the kick.
• Common Mistake to Avoid: Leaning too far over the bike or having an unstable base, leading to a weak kick and potential loss of balance. For instance, if your supporting foot is on loose gravel, you’re setting yourself up for failure.

Troubleshooting Common Motorcycle Kick Failures

Even with the best technique, sometimes the engine just won’t cooperate. Here’s how to diagnose and fix common issues.

• Engine Floods: If you smell a strong smell of gasoline, or if the engine sputters and dies after a brief attempt to run, it’s likely flooded. This happens when too much fuel enters the combustion chamber, preventing ignition.
• Fix: Turn off the choke (if engaged). Open the throttle fully (do NOT twist it while kicking) and perform a few strong kicks. This allows maximum air into the cylinders to help clear the excess fuel. Think of it as airing out the engine. On a carbureted bike, you might also consider opening the idle mixture screw slightly if the issue persists.
• No Spark: If you get no sign of ignition, even after multiple kicks, the issue might be with the spark plug or ignition system. A faulty spark plug is a frequent culprit.
• Troubleshooting: Remove the spark plug. Check if it’s fouled (black and oily). If so, clean or replace it. You can also test for spark by grounding the plug against the engine block and kicking the starter while observing for a blue spark. A weak or yellow spark indicates an ignition problem. A common mistake is assuming the plug is fine without inspection.
• Weak Compression: If the kick starter feels unusually easy to push down, you might have a compression issue. This means the engine isn’t sealing properly, preventing efficient combustion.
• Troubleshooting: This could be due to worn piston rings, a leaking valve, or a blown head gasket. These are more serious mechanical issues requiring professional attention. A compression tester can quantify this issue. For example, a reading significantly lower than the manufacturer’s specification for your bike is a clear indicator.

Motorcycle Kick Verification Checklist

Before you head out, run through this quick checklist to ensure your bike is ready to be kick-started successfully.

• [ ] Fuel Level: Is there sufficient fuel in the tank (at least 1/4 full)?
• [ ] Neutral Gear: Is the motorcycle confirmed to be in neutral (indicator light on or confirmed by feel)?
• [ ] Ignition On: Is the ignition switch in the “on” position?
• [ ] Choke Position: Is the choke set correctly for a cold start (if applicable and engine is cold)?
• [ ] Battery Health: Is the battery adequately charged for ignition system function (if applicable)?
• [ ] Kick Starter Free: Does the kick starter lever move freely through its range of motion before engaging compression?

Frequently Asked Questions About Motorcycle Kick Starting

• Q: How many kicks should it take to start a motorcycle?
• A: There’s no set number. A well-prepared and healthy motorcycle might start on the first or second kick. Older or more temperamental bikes might require more. The goal is consistency, not speed. Focus on the technique and readiness of the bike. For instance, a classic British twin might require more patience than a modern Japanese four-cylinder.
• Q: Can I damage my motorcycle by kick starting it incorrectly?
• A: Yes. Kicking in gear can cause sudden acceleration and loss of control, potentially damaging the bike or causing injury. Repeatedly kicking a flooded engine can also wash oil from the cylinder walls, leading to premature wear. For example, forcing a kick when the lever feels stuck can damage the internal gears of the kick starter mechanism.
• Q: What’s the unique counter-intuitive tip for kick starting?
• A: The most counter-intuitive aspect is that less can sometimes be more. Over-kicking a warm engine is a common mistake. Instead of brute force, a precise, well-timed kick from TDC is far more effective. Think of it as a surgical strike rather than a hammer blow. Many riders mistakenly believe more force always equals better results, when in reality, understanding the engine’s cycle and using controlled power is key.

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Ryan Williams

Ryan Williams has spent over 8 years testing, repairing, and writing about electric bikes. He has personally ridden and reviewed 150+ e-bike models from brands like Lectric, Aventon, Rad Power, Super73, and dozens more.
Before founding EBIKE Delight, Ryan worked as a bicycle mechanic for 5 years at independent bike shops across California, where he specialized in e-bike conversions and electrical system diagnostics. He holds a Certificate in Electric Vehicle Technology from the Light Electric Vehicle Association (LEVA).
Ryan’s work has been cited by Electric Bike Report, Electrek, and BikeRumor. When he is not testing the latest e-bike on California backroads, he is in his workshop tearing down batteries and controllers to understand what makes them tick — and what makes them fail.
Areas of Expertise
E-bike performance testing and real-world range verificationBattery diagnostics, charging best practices, and safetyBrand comparisons: Lectric, Aventon, Rad Power, Super73, and moreError code troubleshooting across major e-bike systemsE-bike laws, registration, and compliance by state
Ryan believes every rider deserves honest, hands-on information — not marketing hype.